Pearls of Wisdom: How To Wear Pearls Today

6 August 2013 by Susie Stenmark

Photograph by Manolo Campion for Elle Mexico

Pearls, gift of the oyster and one of the most popular and beautiful organic gem materials. Pearls are differently sensuous from other gems. They are not bling. Pearls glow, they don’t sparkle. They’re a little old school, their subtle gleam suggesting elegance and quality, an innate simplicity. But although pearls have proven perennial, they do go in and out of fashion: in the 50s a single short strand of graduated size pearls worn with a sweater set was the last word in low-key luxe. Try that today and from a fashion perspective, it doesn’t look quite enough, unless you’re intending prepster ironic.

Here, some tips on how to love the lustre.

Casual: I have a beautiful short pearl necklace which just hits the base of my throat (my favourite length) of the palest 11 mm pink, grey, white and champagne pearls. I adore this necklace, but however many times I put it on, I invariably take it off. I look in the mirror and instantly think it makes me look safe and conservative – almost no matter what I’m wearing.

With pearls, the association for me was always that they’re a little too careful and unimaginative. Until one day, influenced by a stylesetter colleague at Vogue who only ever wore them very casually, I decided that pearls are best worn with a T-shirt! Style dilemma solved! This look is very downplayed: could be I had these on last night at a black tie party and didn’t take them off. It doesn’t take the richness of pearls too seriously.

Maximal: Then my pearl lens was refracted again. I freely admit that this new perspective came when I was under the spell of Chanel, but I began to see that multiple strands of pearls looked amazing worn together, perhaps in varying lengths, of different colours and pearl sizes. The full-on, baroque magnificence of piles of pearls, cascading in abundant loops to below the waist, from a five-strand choker anchored with a Maltese cross pearl brooch is a Karl-era Chanel creation that would surprise you with its versatility. I know, because I have such a necklace and I wear it with silk evening dresses, white denim shorts and a T-shirt, a black leather jacket or the quintessential fashion pairing of Chanel jacket, jeans and ballet flats.

Maximal Pearls

dsquared2 does Chanel. Maximal pearls from dsquared2 SS 2013

Minimal: And now my style evolution today says consider pearls on polished skin with a dead simple dress, probably black but French navy works too. And with not much more in the way of accessories or jewellery. But how does a young woman wearing a pearl necklace in that minimal way avoid looking too Betty Draper-prim? Focus on the hair and makeup looking slick and a little fierce and similarly choose a dress with edge.

Pearl wisdom: They cast a soft glow which is so face flattering – another thing I learnt at Chanel school: a white shirt and pearls (white camellia optional) worn close to the face is as good as carrying around your own personal spotlight.

Pearls pair well with other organic gems such as coral and jet and look wonderful with turquoise, where the pearl’s luminosity and colour-me-happy turquoise are enlivening together, as in the STENMARK Colourburst pendant with white gold, turquoise, pearl and diamonds.

Colourburst turquoise pendant

STENMARK Colourburst pendant with white gold, turquoise, pearl and diamonds.

Gold chain links interspersed with pearls give a necklace an easiness, and the swing of a pendant hanging off a long (try 90 cm) strand is modern, conveying luxe with its generous length.

Do you know your pearl colour? Aside from which colour you prefer, the right pearl colour for your skin tone will make a big difference to how they look: women with darker skins are made to show off golden, Tahitian or pale grey pearls, while white, cream or pink-toned pearls suit lighter skin tones.

Don’t necessarily go for a large pearl size – too big and they’re Marge Simpson.

Pearls need special care and that’s another blog post, coming next week. Subscribe to the STENmark so you don’t miss a thing.